If your family lawn - unassuming cozy place to rest and picnic on the weekend, you can do the most minimal effort to maintain it in a relative manner. If you aspire to the ideal type of grass and putting green without flaws, is a decorative element in the garden, then it is better to tune in to the considerable costs of labor, time and money. To learn how to lay a new lawn, you can read our article How to create a perfect lawn
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Regular spring and autumn treatment include cleansing, aeration (ventilation), the improvement of the upper soil layer and the alignment of the boundaries of lawn. These studies are very important for improving water and air permeability of turf to improve the quality of the soil, feeding the roots, preventing fungal infections and many other problems.
Start treatment with a rigid mechanical cleaning and removing debris (old coarse grass stems, leaves, moss). Use of this work, metal fan rake, and the large lawns - scarifier or a special attachment to the mower. In the autumn lawn requires regular cleaning of fallen leaves.
Spend aeration (ventilation) of the soil on the lawn - piercing the top layer of soil to a depth of 10-15 cm Aeration allows access of air, water and fertilizer to the roots of grass and is especially important for sticking together, fossil soils, which are formed from heavy use, sun exposure and stagnation of water. On small lawns, you can use ordinary garden fork, at large - mechanical aerators. On heavy clay soils may require a so-called Excavator aerator that pulls on the surface of the ground from an opening, and then filling these holes with sand to improve permeability.
Improving topsoil is achieved using a uniform distribution of sand on the surface of the lawn. This procedure improves the structure of heavy soils and helps grass roots nutrition, and also corrects small irregularities on the surface of the lawn. Use a mixture of sand with a light garden soil or leaf humus (2:1), carefully aligning the composition of the surface roughness and by adjusting the back of the rake.
Make alignment boundaries lawn with a sharp spade. The straight lines are cut out by the board or a stretched string, and wavy - the hose. Adjust and update the grooves separating the lawn from other areas of the garden
Grass growth begins at 5 degrees, continues during the warm season, with varying intensity, slowing down in the hot and dry periods, and stops at the end of the season after the onset of sustained cold snap. Regular grass cutting and competent - an absolutely essential work, if you want to be well-groomed lawn.
During the first spring blade mower cuts set to the highest level. With the onset of warmer weather, when grass growth is becoming more intense, you can begin to cut the grass for short, but shorter than a certain minimum length for your class. In the heat of summer, grass growth slows down, especially on the sunny lawns. At this time, it should produce trimming less often (once every 2-3 weeks), leaving a greater length of grass and not to use the shopping cart to collect scraps. The rest of the lawn grass cuttings serve as an additional protection against sunburn, mulchirovkoy to retain moisture and fertilizer. The remains of the cut grass will soon disappear in the soil or lawn mower will be picked up during the next haircut.
After graduating from basic lawn mowing, carefully handle the border with the help of special lawn shears or a rotary trimmer.
Grass cutting should always be done in dry weather. Mown grass - an excellent addition to the compost heap, but if you do not use herbicides for at least 2-3 weeks before cutting. Too short haircuts help expose roots to drying soil and general weakening of the grass. Too long hairstyles weaken the grass, decreasing its aerial parts. The general rule for cutting: less is better (cut), but more often (to cut).
Mechanical cleaning using radial rake Here is the lawn after aeration process skarifitsirovaniya (ventilation) so the lawn looks after lawn aeration
Destruction of weeds
Large weeds grow in the whole colony, spoils the appearance of the lawn (dandelions, plantain, daisy). However, they are clearly visible in the grass and they can root out manually using hoes or scoops. Large colonies can be destroyed by replacing the entire block of grass. Smaller (clover, oxalis) is not clearly visible to the naked eye, and perhaps in moderation will not cause you have objections. If you are trying to completely weed-free lawn, use special lawn herbicides that selectively kill weeds without harming turf grasses (but not all weeds are herbicide-susceptible). There are special chemical "moss killer", which often affects the damp, shady lawn. Often, herbicides for weeds and moss are part of the seasonal fertilizer for the grass.
It should be remembered that all herbicides are essentially poisons and their selectivity is very relative, despite the optimistic assurances of manufacturers in their complete harmlessness to humans and domestic animals. In reality, the use of pesticides means that, at least until the next good rains you can not walk barefoot or sit on your lawn (not to mention the fact to let go of children). And the foul smell from the same "killer moss" is able to completely poison stay in every corner of the garden. Therefore, use herbicides occasionally, in case of emergency and in minimal amounts of active. Spring lawn with scorched brown spots of excess herbicides are familiar to many. They are a sad sight and did not recover.
Daisy - the usual weeds in lawn fertilization with herbicides for grass plot burnt grass, which has got too much herbicide for moss
For an ideal type of lawn requires a minimum of three seasonal feeding. Feeding contribute to the strengthening of grass and help it to beat the weeds that are sure to have on every lawn. Always make fertilizer, as recommended by the manufacturer. Too much fertilizer spoils the environment, can be dangerous for people who can "burn" the grass and spoil the appearance of the lawn. Do not make the fall of the remaining unused fertilizer for spring and summer in order to save: it contains large amounts of nitrogen and is an active growth of the green mass, which is detrimental to plants in the coming cold season. Fall fertilizers contain more phosphorus and potassium, which strengthens the root of the plants and help them survive the winter.
Watering the lawn or do not water - a matter of personal choice. For example, in the UK, many fundamentally do not water the lawn, even during dry periods, despite the fixed cost of cold water. People consider it immoral to use the national resources of water for irrigation of grass, which is known for a few rainy days is completely restored. Brownish lawns during a drought in the Royal Botanic Gardens Kew, the Royal Horticultural Gardens community and other national parks do not offend anyone here seen and completely natural.
If you only so far toward achieving such a high civic consciousness and make a choice in favor of watering your lawn, do it strictly according to need, using the spray. So you can without spending resources wasted, give your grass a necessary amount of water that is 13 mm at a time (put in a vessel open glass area of the nozzle). Remember that the new lawn (as laid sod and grass crops), need regular moisture.
Aligning the boundaries of the lawn stretched on pegs rope alignment boundaries lawn stretched on pegs on the rope alignment boundaries lawn on a rope stretched on pegs
Restoration of worn or damaged areas
Patches of fresh turf or new plantings may be required at those places that were wiped out due to heavy use, or damaged by strong rhizomatous weeds. Using a sharp long knife cut a square or rectangle with smooth edges around the damaged area. Make an incision under the sod, carefully peel off and pick up the damaged area with a wide shovel. Treat bare place: remove deep-rooted weeds, add fresh soil to the required level, seal the surface. Put a layer of fresh sod or sow the right size patch of grass.
Alignment of hillocks and valleys. Make an incision on the surface of the turf with the letter "H" so that the beam passed along the middle of the problem area. Carefully separate and lift the sod, fill in low ground light garden soil or sand to level the main lobe with the ground, lay sod in its place, connecting the edges, seal.
Restore clear boundaries. If the boundaries of the lawn severely damaged (inflicted, smeared in some places), cut a square patch of turf around the injury site, carefully peel off the turf flat wide shovel, pick up the damaged area, turn 180 degrees and place in its place. Now the boundary of the lawn again became clear, and the problem zone has moved inside, where it is much easier to fix. Treat problematic place, as mentioned above, and sow grass.
Correction of damage from pests. Moles are most active in spring, it was then and there on the surface of the lawn of a handful of land in the vicinity of deep pits - out of underground tunnels. Effective means to combat environmental moles - special electronic devices that emit noise at a certain height, and repel moles. Such devices are sold in garden centers. Their range is limited, so you may need a few pieces. Earthworms are also a handful of soil is left on the steps of moves, but these piles are much smaller. Backfill pits and leveled the ground vyvalennoy rake from the ground level of the soil. Ant nests, which appear on the lawn in late summer, before the grass cutting should be place with a stiff brush.
Correction of damage from fungal infections, and humidity. Waterlogging occurs especially in rainy seasons in areas with poor permeability, usually on the shady lawns. The solution to this problem (as well as the problem appears toadstools on the lawn) is a general improvement in the quality and permeability of the soil and deeper ventilation during seasonal processing. Lots of grass affected by fungal infections can be identified by the appearance of severe dry grass and general yellowing or reddening of the area. The problem is solved by introducing nitrogen fertilizer on the affected area.
Keep in mind that freezing and wet periods of the year should be as small as possible to disturb the lawn, try not to step on the grass, and conduct the necessary work, standing on the board, rather than on grass.